Interfaces, Confinement, Matériaux et Nanostructures - ICMN

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Aurélien Tidu

Laboratoire d’accueil : Interfaces, Confinement, Matériaux et Nanostructures (ICMN), CNRS/Université d’Orléans

Responsables : Samuel Guillot, Fabienne Méducin

Spécialité : Physique et chimie des matériaux/Matière Molle

Contrat de Recherche : EMULCOSM

Projet de recherche : Influence of several cosmetic actives on structured lipid-based miniemulsions (emulsified mesophases).

Mots clés : nanoparticles, emulsified mesophases, clay materials, SAXS, cosmetic actives

Résumé :
The projects I am working on aim to design internally structured lipid-based particles that can encapsulate cosmetic actives such as aromas with various hydrophobicities.
The lipid/water liquid crystalline phases have a huge interest because of their biological relevance [1,2] and their wide range of applications such as delivery systems for the pharmaceutics and food industry [3,4] or matrix for proteins [5]. Some mesophases may be dispersed in aqueous media for instance by ultrasonication or shearing [6]. This leads to particles ideally keeping the bulk internal structure at the maximum water content [7]. Particles of submicron size containing bicontinuous cubic phases (cubosomes) [8], a hexagonal phase (hexosomes) [9], a micellar cubic phase (micellar cubosomes) and an L2 phase (emulsified micro emulsions) can be obtained. Those carriers have to be physically well-defined (shape, structure and size). The objective is to formulate nanostructured monolinolein miniemulsions (stabilized with copolymer F127 or clay materials) incorporating cosmetic active ingredients of different chemical classes, and to characterize their impact on the dispersed mesophase in relation with their structure or amphiphilicity. The use of clay materials to stabilize the particles is also studied with the objective of replacing commonly used polymers. The structure can be well studied by Small Angle X-ray Scattering while the size is determined by dynamic light scattering.

Figure 1  : Influence of guest molecules (such as aromas like thymol or γ-lactones) on the particles internal structure. A structural modification of the mesophase implies the incorporation of the guest molecule in the particles.

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